A better technique I have used for some time is one 2x4 in the center for partition wall stability and scabbing on a 5 1/2" OSB rips on top and bottom of the joining partition stud to receive the drywall. We just completed the first 3rd party engineering study (within the University of North Carolina system) on the strength of stick framed corners (apparently it's never been done that we could find) - many different ways of doing it but no one's ever looked at how it affects the strength of the overall structure, comparing one method to another. Thanks, Sean. The early home builders used bigger pieces of wood — timbers — and when the smaller dimensional lumber that we use so much today hit the market, they scoffingly referred to those new-fangled little woody things as sticks. Bo, that's a good catch. Just get some insulation in there. 11" x 14": $6 for glass/$8 for plexiglass, 18" x 24": $10 for glass/$24 for plexiglass, 24" x 36" (poster-size! See that article I wrote right before this one and take a look at the joists running across the top of the wall separating the garage and the living space. I don't think this is just a problem in the Southeast, though. Here's the diagram: It uses less wood and gives you more space for insulation. It's not that expensive or time-consuming to have a piece of glass custom cut for a frame; just be sure to bring the frame with you so they can measure the exact size. If the headers are to one side to make room for insulation on the outside, then the load is not evenly transferred to the stud. We were using muzzle loading rifles (like the model 1841 Mississippi Rifle) to fight our wars when stud frame construction and balloon framing was taking this country into a new realm of building technology. The photo of the humongous header over a 3-foot opening is a glaring mistake. Intrigued? That would keep the header warmer in winter and cooler in summer, protecting it from the changes that happen with changing weather. Part of advanced framing is using right-sized headers. The image above (from the same US Dept. Before insulation became widespread, it didn't matter if you put extra wood in your walls. Quirky, vintage photographs can be found at many thrift stores for pennies. After two decades of being used to haul goods, containers are typically not sturdy enough to move around while maintaining their integrity. In addition, using logs as a framing material cuts down on the other materials need to build the house -- siding, drywall and insulation are typically not required. One of the lesser-known alternatives to wood framing materials, straw bale is made by covering baled straw with stucco. Flip it over to see if there's a "dust cover," which is brown craft paper that's trimmed to the size of the frame and glued to the back, sealing everything inside. Yeah, I realized after another commenter pointed it out that I was calling that a 2-stud corner when it's really a 3-stud California corner. Here's one that a client of ours used a few years ago: It's got 1-by deadwood for drywall and what is essentially fireblocking through the cavity. It's beautiful! Ideal placement is also on outside for me though I have done inside. The trickier part will be getting a fresh, clean matboard to make a piece fit just right. An ICF Wall System is an alternative construction method that saves money both … ICF Wall System. In a typical home, that extra half inch is wasted. In need of easy art? Mostly I see the California corners. You can have a matboard cut at a framing or craft store for a reasonable price (from under $10 for an 8" x 10" to around $30 for a 24" x 36"), but if you're going to be matting a bunch of things and have a clean, sturdy table to work on, consider investing in some supplies to cut them yourself -- it will quickly pay off! This one is a no-brainer. ©2020 Verizon Media. Permaculture. I hear builders complaining about the price of stud frame lumber going through the roof because of the recently announced tariffs on Canadian lumber - so maybe that will help people change. Headers abound in stick-built homes. The oriented strand board (OSB) sheathing on the exterior side of the wall will be covered with insulation. Once you start adjusting your perspective to see them, good old frames spring up everywhere. Along with being easy on the wallet and the planet, CFS is resistant to pests, water damage and fire. Foam placement is dependent on what you might be doing - placing it inside can interfere with drape placement, outside with trim or awning's (though if you use plywood that point is moot). I once wrote about this for a case involving a header in an interior wall: Common Sense - The Best Green Building Skill in the World. I agree, Ryan. Of course, framing some art is best left to the professionals: Paintings on thick canvases, fabrics or articles of clothing you want suspended on matting, and anything ultra-expensive is best left to the experts. Most insulation is close to 4 per inch. When you're at the local thrift store or flea market, look for bad art in decent frames or even decent frames that are empty, and spend no more than $5 on anything (up to $10 for the big frames). Here in the Southeast, this is definitely "advanced" framing. That means more heat loss in winter and more heat gain in summer. It is made of recycled heavier-gauge steel that comes from buildings and old cars. One builder told me 2x6 @ 24" OC advanced framing cannot be used in climate zones 1-4, and referenced page 6 of this APA document: http://www.apawood.org/data/sharedfiles/documents/m400.pdf Clean the glass on both sides with glass cleaner and put it back in the frame (cloth gloves make this fingerprint-proof, but careful hands work, too). With the foam or mineral wool in the center, the load is transferred equally through the headers to the stud. It's a bit of a mental shift from looking for quality art in thrift stores, which can be a needle in a haystack, but the vintage frame hunt is consistently more rewarding. Check out the factsheet for more details on that. If you collect vintage frames frequently enough, you'll often have roughly the right size on hand when you acquire art (and when not displaying your art, you can use them as decor!). This is similar to the T-wall problem. Builders are afraid that 2x6 24"oc framing will get blown down unlike 2x6 or 2x4 on 16"oc or so I've read from Texas builders that have engineering degrees and "30 yrs" experience. A Sword through the Ribs of the Building Envelope, The Layers and Pathways of Heat Flow in Buildings. FYI Allison that is a three stud corner you have pictured, a two stud corner does not have that one long one to catch drywall & instead people rely on drywall clips. Knowing a reliable custom framer in your town is essential if you love to hang art; who better to trust with your favorite new pictures, prints, paintings, and posters than an artist? In the Pacific Northwest, these things are intermediate, or perhaps even more basic. Most new homes in North America are built with sticks. You can do it easily with rigid foam board. Before tossing it, take a look at the "bad art" you just removed and decide if it can be salvaged. Using these advanced framing techniques will reduce the amount of wood in those walls and increase the insulation. Could the difference be regional (I work in the Pacific Northwest), tied to the prevalence of 2x4 vs 2x6 framing (the norm in the PNW) or both? ): $22 for glass/$44 for plexiglass. There is alot of competing info out there, and difficult to obtain objective data vs. just opinions. Considered one of the best alternatives to stick-built homes, CFS is cost-efficient and environmentally friendly. Strength wise it is a wash though you get the benefit of being able to add more insulation into the bay though that isn't where I would really want it, You want objective data - first you need to spell out the requirements in full & then send to an engineer to crunch the numbers. Create an Oversized Frame Sure, this is technically a frame — but an oversized, make-it-yourself container for Instagrams or other small photos add … Prep an old frame for re-use by first un-framing the existing art: Once your frame and glass are free to house new tenants, use them to frame new pictures (or the art you just salvaged) one of these three ways: Printing your favorite pictures at home, on regular paper or photo-quality, is easy and cheap. Tip: If your frame doesn't have glass, buy a custom piece (of glass or plexiglass) from a framing store. Scrapbooking papers (a wide selection can be found at any craft store), recycled, vintage papers (see above! Keep them coming. But that sinking feeling when you see the price tag at pickup is almost inevitable. The photo below shows what that looks like. The diagram below (from the US Department of Energy; click image to download pdf) shows what it looks like. I do have an issue/improvement with the first T-intersection detail. Choose plexiglass, which is lightweight, scratch-resistant, and pretty impossible to break, if you don't mind that it's a little more expensive (see below) and not all-natural. In general, the most cost-efficient framing materials are recycled materials that have little to no use aside from their intended purposed. If you're a builder and worried about trying something new, check out Matt Risinger's video about standard framing versus advanced framing.